OAJ Hot Take: Thank Capitalism and Patriarchy for the 10-Year-Olds at Sephora
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The piece below is part of our weekly blog post series written by the Open-Air Journal team where we explore issues at Heller, current events, or whatever is presently on our minds.
Late last year, a young woman asked her TikTok viewers if they had noticed more tweens (children between ages nine and 12) shopping at Sephora. The post instantly struck a chord, with Sephora employees, parents, and annoyed shoppers chiming in. Some were primarily concerned with the children’s behavior, citing rude interactions with staff and messy sample stations. Others were shocked that some 10-year-olds spent $62 on moisturizer or $38 on setting spray. Regardless of the complaint, many commenters concluded that Gen Alpha must be spoiled brats that are growing up too fast.
I, too, was surprised that tweens were buying products from some of the priciest brands at Sephora, and reminisced of simpler times when Victoria’s Secret Love Spell body spray was the “it” product. I resisted my pearl-clutching – young girls wanting to try grown-up beauty products is nothing new. Still, I could not help but feel sad and frustrated that fresh-faced tweens were being convinced that they already needed expensive, elaborate skincare routines.
I always thought of the tween years as an important time for girls when there is still some amount of freedom from the expectations and pressure we face as we grow into womanhood. Over time, this freedom seems to be shrinking. Brands and influencers, along with increasing levels of isolation and depression, are pushing young girls onto the hamster wheel of overconsumption and self-improvement earlier than ever.
Social media is a big piece of this puzzle. Influencers and celebrities frequently show off their expensive and unattainable lifestyles in a way that feels intimate and relatable to the viewer, tempting fans to imitate their purchases. Sponsored content, which can be difficult to spot, especially for kids and teens, adds another layer of influence. It is also important to consider the impact of social media platform design. Popular social media apps like Instagram and TikTok have rearranged their layouts in order to add, and prioritize, in-app purchases. Not only does this enable impulsive spending while on social media but the design also signals to users that shopping is an essential part of the app experience.
Tween and teenage girls may also be seeking happiness and community when they go to Sephora to buy the latest hot product. According to the Center for Disease Control and Prevention, almost 3 in 5 teenage girls in the United States “felt persistently sad or hopeless in 2021—double that of boys and the highest level reported over the past decade.” Social media influencers know that acting like a friend to their viewers will resonate. They often use video formats like “Get Ready With Me” and “Chatty FaceTime Vibes'' to create a sense of intimacy and friendship. This gives their product recommendations even more weight for young fans.
While it may be that only a small percentage of 10-year-olds are wreaking havoc at Sephora stores, cosmetics spending by young girls is indeed on the rise. Combined with broader trends like the “pink tax” and the gender wage gap, this trend is part of a larger ecosystem that limits women’s economic power. It has been well documented that products marketed toward women often cost more than those marketed toward men: personal care products cost on average 13 percent more for women, and 21 states still impose sales taxes on period products.
There are also many products and services that, while not considered necessities like period products, are increasingly posed as essential for women’s beauty maintenance. These include makeup products and beauty services, like manicures, lash lifts, facials, laser hair removal – the list goes on. While men can and do purchase these products and services and are not exempt from societal pressure to look a certain way, there are more severe ramifications for women if they do not maintain their appearance sufficiently. For instance, if women do not wear makeup at work, they are deemed unprofessional. Paradoxically, research suggests women are seen as “less trustworthy” if they wear too much makeup. These impossible standards are even harsher for women of color. According to a Dove CROWN study, Black women’s hair was 2.5 times more likely to be seen as unprofessional, and 20% of Black women between ages 25 and 34 reported that they’ve been sent home from work because of their hair.
Women also pay with their precious time. Doing hair and makeup each day takes time, and those hair, nail, and waxing appointments add up. Research shows that men have 5 hours more of leisure time per week than women, which adds up to about 10, 24-hour days per year. While beauty maintenance is not the only reason for this discrepancy, beauty rituals eat at a woman’s already limited time, thus limiting her opportunities to advance at work or engage in fulfilling hobbies.
It is possible to experience these beauty rituals as a form of relaxation or a creative outlet. A tween told Teen Vogue that her daily and weekly skincare routine is “just fun” and she enjoys making TikTok’s showing off her new products to her friends. However, it is important to recognize that the powerful beauty industry, as well as the influencer industrial complex, are working overtime to make lifelong customers out of young girls. The industry’s goal is to convince women of all ages that expensive beauty products and services are necessary for both social acceptance and self-actualization. If we hope to achieve gender equality, women and girls must be granted the tools to attain those things with or without a luxury skincare routine.